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Gemstones

Colored gemstones: types, prices and how to buy them

Eight colored stones come up again and again in serious buying. Here is what each one is, what moves its price and how rare fine examples are, with links to the ones on the shop.

A ruby, a blue sapphire, an emerald, a red spinel, an alexandrite and a blue tourmaline on ivory paperIllustration

The eight stones

What each stone is, and what sets its price

There is no price list for colored stones, as there is for gold: color, treatment, origin, size and the lab report decide where a stone sits in its range.

Ruby

Red corundum, colored by chromium: the same mineral as sapphire. The finest are a pure, glowing red. Most rubies are heated to improve color and clarity, which the trade accepts.

Price
Color first; then treatment (unheated sells at a premium, glass-filled is worth a fraction), origin (Burma, Mozambique, the Thai–Cambodian border) and size.
Rarity
Fine rubies above two or three carats are rare; unheated ones rarer still.

Sapphire

Corundum in every color except red. Blue is the classic; pink, yellow, purple, padparadscha and color-change sapphires each have a market of their own.

Price
Saturation and tone of the color, heating (routine) versus diffusion (value falls sharply), origin (Kashmir, Burma, Sri Lanka, Madagascar) and size.
Rarity
Fine blue sapphire is found in larger sizes than fine ruby; unheated stones above five carats, and padparadscha at any size, are rare.

Spinel

A mineral of its own, mistaken for ruby for centuries. Red, hot pink, cobalt blue, purple and gray, and most of it sold untreated.

Price
Color (red, hot pink and cobalt blue lead), no heating, origin (Burma, Tanzania, Vietnam, Sri Lanka) and size.
Rarity
Fine red and pink spinel above a few carats is scarce; cobalt-blue spinel is rare at any size.

Emerald

Green beryl, colored by chromium and vanadium. Inclusions are normal, and nearly every emerald is filled with oil or resin to make fractures less visible.

Price
Color and transparency, how much clarity enhancement the report finds (none, minor, moderate, significant), origin (Colombia, Zambia, Brazil, Afghanistan) and size.
Rarity
Emeralds with no enhancement are rare, and fine ones above a few carats rarer still.

Paraíba tourmaline

Tourmaline colored by copper, found in Brazil's Paraíba state in the late 1980s and later in Nigeria and Mozambique. Its neon blue to green has no close rival.

Price
Saturation of the color, copper confirmed by a lab, origin (Brazil carries the premium), clarity and size.
Rarity
Fine stones above one carat are scarce, especially from Brazil.

Alexandrite

A variety of chrysoberyl that changes color: green or bluish green in daylight, red or purplish red under incandescent light.

Price
The strength and cleanness of the color change, natural rather than lab-grown, origin (Russia, Brazil, Sri Lanka, East Africa) and size.
Rarity
Fine alexandrite above one carat is rare. Lab-grown alexandrite is common, so a report is essential.

Tsavorite

Green grossular garnet from East Africa, from Kenya and Tanzania, found in the late 1960s. Bright, lively and usually untreated.

Price
A saturated, pure green, clarity and size. Untreated is the norm, so treatment rarely enters the price.
Rarity
Clean tsavorite above two or three carats is rare.

Opal

Hydrated silica. Precious opal shows play-of-color, flashes of spectral color that move as the stone turns. The main types are black, boulder, white, crystal and fire opal.

Price
Type and body tone (black opal leads), the brightness and pattern of the play-of-color, origin (Australia, Ethiopia, Mexico), stability, and whether it is solid or a doublet or triplet.
Rarity
Bright black opal with a broad, vivid pattern is the rarest.

Under ultraviolet light

Gemstone fluorescence: a clue, not a verdict

Under ultraviolet light some stones glow. Reports often note it, and for a few stones it matters to price.

Chromium makes rubies and red spinels fluoresce red, and in daylight that glow adds to the color, which is one reason Burmese rubies are prized. Iron suppresses it, so iron-rich rubies, like many from the Thai–Cambodian border, look darker and barely fluoresce.

In sapphire and emerald, a laboratory reads fluorescence as one clue among many: a chalky glow under short-wave ultraviolet can point to heating in some sapphires, and some fillers in emeralds fluoresce. Paraíba tourmaline is usually inert, while many opals glow white or bluish. Fluorescence is a clue, not a verdict: a report weighs it with everything else.

Natural or not

Natural, treated or lab-grown, and the report that tells you which

Six of the eight stones on this page (all but Paraíba tourmaline and tsavorite, which are imitated by glass and other materials instead) are also grown in laboratories, sometimes with the same chemistry as the natural one, and sell for a fraction of the price. Treatments such as heat, diffusion and fillers move value just as much. Telling them apart takes a gemological laboratory.

A report from a recognized lab states natural or lab-grown, the treatment and, on request, the origin. Check it on the lab's own website, and remember what a lookup proves: that the report exists, not that it describes the stone in front of you. The report describes a stone; the passport proves it's this one.

Next

Buying, selling or holding one of these stones

Buying: every lot states how far it has been checked, and the money is held, so no seller is paid before the stone has been checked against its description. Selling: list the stone from your cabinet (a private owner pays a one-time $20 listing fee, and the desk confirms the payment and reviews the lot before it goes live), then sell safely through Everystone with no commission under $10k while we launch and 5% from $10k. Holding: from $30k, a free-zone vault in Bangkok, insured at documented value, for 3.5% a year.

Questions people ask

Which colored gemstone is the rarest?

Among these eight, the hardest to find in fine quality are Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil, alexandrite with a strong color change, and unheated ruby above a few carats. Rarity is always about quality: commercial grades of every stone here are easy to buy.

What does fluorescence mean on a gemstone report?

It describes how the stone glows under ultraviolet light. In rubies and red spinels, strong red fluorescence comes with chromium and adds to the color in daylight; in sapphire and emerald, labs read it as one clue among many about heating or fillers. It is rarely the deciding factor on its own.

Are lab-grown gemstones worth the same as natural ones?

No. Lab-grown ruby, sapphire, spinel, emerald, alexandrite and opal can look the same as natural stones, and some have the same chemistry, but they sell for a small fraction of comparable natural stones. A report from a recognized lab states which it is.

How do I buy a colored gemstone online safely?

Buy where the money is held until you have the stone, the lot states what has been checked, and the report can be looked up at the lab. On Everystone, every lot shows its verification level and every purchase is a protected payment.

Browse the shop by stone

Every lot shows how far it has been checked, and every purchase is a protected payment. Browsing needs no account.

Colored Gemstones Guide: Types, Prices, Rarity — Everystone